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<\/p>\nBeauty can be befuddling. Especially skincare and all the myriad active ingredients to target specific concerns. I have friends who are paralysed by the overwhelming choice. Others find the mixed messages from \u2018experts\u2019 and social media so confusing they opt out altogether.<\/p>\n
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That said, many of us now know the ingredients that really deliver: vitamin C to brighten and protect; vitamin A (ie, retinol) to boost skin quality and even out tone; niacinamide to strengthen and calm, and hyaluronic acid, which moisturises intensely.<\/p>\n
However, to add to the noise, brands have started shouting about the percentages of active ingredients in their skincare, leaving many of us to assume that the bigger the number the more dramatic the results. But it\u2019s not that simple, as I discover after talking to dermatologist and medical director of Eudelo clinic Dr Stefanie Williams.<\/p>\n
First, she tells me, don\u2019t get too hung up on numbers \u2013 an increased percentage of a certain active ingredient doesn\u2019t necessarily mean a product works better \u2013 its efficacy is actually down to the formulator\u2019s expertise in creating a balanced mix of ingredients. As for single-ingredient products with \u2018record\u2019 high concentrations of one ingredient, \u2018they really bug me\u2019, says Dr Williams \u2013 that\u2019s lazy formulating. Skin needs a mix of actives that work together. Low concentrations \u2013 a \u2018mere dusting\u2019 \u2013 of active ingredients are no good either.<\/p>\n
The two ingredients where it seems percentages do really matter are vitamin C and retinol. Dr Williams advises on what you need to look out for:<\/p>\n
\u2605 Up to 20% of vitamin C \u2013 an antioxidant that protects skin from damage caused by environmental stressors \u2013 is the ideal. Above 20% is counterproductive.<\/p>\n
\u2605 For retinol, that hero smoother and firmer, 0.5% works best for many people, while for sensitive skins, 0.1% is a better option. And remember, you can\u2019t compare concentrations of different retinoids: 0.3% retinol is very different from 0.3% retinyl palmitate (the latter is much weaker).<\/p>\n
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C-Tetra Luxe Enhanced Radiance Serum, \u00a359, medik8.com\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n With its 14% vitamin C, this hits the sweet spot for brightening skin.<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n Simple Smoothing Gel Cleanser 5% Lactic and Hyaluronic Acid, \u00a38, boots.com<\/span>\u00a0<\/p>\n Efficacious levels of acids gently exfoliate.<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n![](\"https:\/\/i.dailymail.co.uk\/1s\/2023\/12\/11\/15\/78827579-12849779-image-m-76_1702310385136.jpg\")
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